ARIZONA
THE HEARD MUSEUM presents “Loloma: Expressions in Metal, Ink and Clay” through October 4. In addition to being one of Native America’s most acclaimed jewelers, Charles Loloma (Hopi) also created pen and ink drawings of landscapes, textiles and corn, among other inspirations. The exhibit offers fresh insights into the talents of this leading Native artist. Loloma jewelry and pottery, Hopi textiles and katsina carvings are included.
2301 North Central Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona 85004; 602.252.8840; www.heard.org.

THE PHOENIX ART MUSEUM features “Pattern Play: The Contemporary Designs of Jacqueline Groag” through August 9. Following the prolonged trauma of World War II, a renewed public appetite for color and pattern flourished in Britain. Czech-born Jacqueline Groag was one of the most versatile women designers of this period. From the colorful and playful to the abstract and representational, Groag’s work contributed to Britain’s spirit of renewal and defined the popular “contemporary” style.
1625 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602.257.1880; www.phxart.org.


Shown are a shawl by Betsy Giberson, an acrylic bracelet by Karen McCreary, and wooden bowls by Holly Tornheim.

CALIFORNIA
THE AMERICAN CRAFT COUNCIL holds its San Francisco Show from July 31 through August 2 at the Fort Mason Center’s Festival Pavilion. Covering the work of over two hundred twenty-five craftspeople, the show gathers artists from across the traditional media, as well as several additional categories such as toys and puzzles. An emerging artists section introduces those who have recently become part of the craft show circuit. There are also special exhibits, such as the American Craft Charm Collection, where participating jewelers have created their own take on charm bracelets, pendants and pins. The “Make Room: Modern Design Meets Craft” presents craft in context, showing dioramas where a room has been decorated entirely with handmade objects from exhibitors.
shows.craftcouncil.org/sf.

Shown are an ‘Ahu ‘ula (cloak), possibly mid-eighteenth century, an ‘Ahu ‘ula (cape), pre-1861, and a Mahiole (feathered helmet), possibly late eighteenth to early nineteenth century.

THE DE YOUNG MUSEUM hosts “Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Na Hulu Ali‘i”, from August 29, 2015 through February 28, 2016. This exhibit explores the distinctive art, culture and history of Hawai‘i, and is the first exhibition of Hawaiian featherwork on the U.S. mainland, developed in partnership with the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, Honolulu. Approximately seventy-five examples of featherwork capes and cloaks will be featured, as well as royal staffs of feathers (kahili), feather lei (lei hulu manu), helmets (mahiole), feathered god images (akua hulu manu), and related eighteenth- and nineteenth-century paintings and works on paper. Shown are a Mahiole (feathered helmet), possibly late eighteenth to early nineteenth century, an ‘Ahu ‘ula (cape), pre-1861, and an ‘Ahu ‘ula (cloak),
possibly mid-eighteenth century.
Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, San Francisco, California 94118; 415.750.3600; deyoung.famsf.org.

THE FOWLER MUSEUM AT UCLA features “Making Strange: Gagawaka” through September 6. Half of a two-part exhibit, Gagawaka is comprised of twenty-seven sculptural garments made from recycled materials and medical supplies to evoke a playful yet subversive relationship to fashion, haute couture, the runway, and the brand. Also showing at the museum is “Fowler In Focus: The Art of Hair in Africa” through September 20. The exhibition brings together a selection of the museum’s African hair adornments and a contemporary film by Ghanaian-American artist Akosua Adoma Owusu. Shown are Diva R-E-D dress.
308 Charles E. Young Drive North, Los Angeles, California 90024; 310.825.4361; www.fowler.ucla.edu.

 
 

THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING presents “A Century of Millinery Style: Hats from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection”  through August 14 at its Orange County location. This exhibit includes women’s hats, bonnets and toques, offering visitors an overview of nineteenth- and early twentieth-century millinery fashions. Visitation is by appointment only.
17590 Gillette Ave., Irvine, CA 92614; 949.851.6200 ext. 1730;
www.fidmmuseum.org.

TABOO STUDIO hosts “Back to Nature” from August 14 through September 25. The exhibition’s theme has been interpreted in a variety of fashions, from abstracted organic forms to utilizing elements from nature. Participating artists include Christina Goodman, Alexandra Hart, Judith Hoyt, Micki Lippe, Roné Prinz, Boline Strand, and April Wood.
1615 W. Lewis St., San Diego, CA 92103; 619.692.0099;
www.taboostudio.com.


ILLINOIS
THE CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM hosts “Chicago Styled: Fashioning the Magnificent Mile” through August 16. Featuring twenty-six ensembles from the museum’s costume collection, the exhibition explores the development of North Michigan Avenue into one of the most recognizable and renowned destinations for upscale retail. Set against a shifting landscape, the clothing featured tells the story of the growth of this landmark district, showcasing the fashion from the past decades and the stylish people who wore it. On display are pieces by noted designers such as Norman Norell, Adolfo, Christian Lacroix, Yohji Yamamoto, and Chanel.
1601 North Clark Street, Chicago, Illinois 60614; 312.642.4600; www.chicagohistory.org.

THE RICHARD H. DRIEHAUS MUSEUM presents “Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry” ending January 3, 2016. The exhibition features more than two hundred fifty works of art jewelry between the Victorian Era and the First World War. This exhibition examines the international proliferation of art jewelry through the lens of women as its maker and muse.
40 East Erie St., Chicago, IL 60611; 312.482.8933; www.driehausmuseum.org.


Shown are Red Floral Constellation necklace by Kristina Logan, brooch by Ellen Wieske, and Specimens by Jaydan Moore.

MASSACHUSETTS
THE FULLER CRAFT MUSEUM hosts “Haystack Components: Metals and Jewelry” through November 1. This exhibition consists of those connected to Haystack Mountain School of Crafts as teachers, teaching assistants, students, staff, or board members. The work is diverse, spanning handcrafted work to CAD-designed interpretations and even spectacles (glasses). A wide variety of materials are also used that fall under the broad heading of metals and jewelry: precious and nonprecious metals, gems, wood, plastic, glass, fiber, and concrete.
455 Oak Street, Brockton, Massachusetts 02301; 508.588.6000; www.fullercraft.org.

MOBILIA GALLERY has extended its exhibition, “Kevin Coates: A Year of Rings” through August 31. To quote the artist, “If these twelve rings are not representative of any part or aspect of a year, what then are they about? Well, individually, they reflect some of those things which perhaps concern us all at one time or another, and which certainly have been the motivation behind so much of my work: for here are jewel-meditations upon Time, Love, Myth, History, Nature, Belief, Music, Wisdom and, I hope, the Human Response, if only of their maker’s abiding sense of wonder at the all-this-ness of existence.”
358 Huron Ave., Cambridge, MA 02138; 617.876.2109; www.mobilia-gallery.com.


MICHIGAN
THE CRANBROOK ART MUSEUM displays “The Jewelry of Harry Bertoia” through October 11. Former Cranbrook Academy of Art student and metalsmithing instructor Harry Bertoia (1915–1978) has received international acclaim for his metal furniture and sculpture, but his exploration of the medium originated in jewelry design. Also showing is the exhibit “Nick Cave: Here Hear,” through October 11. African-American artist Nick Cave is famed for his embellished costumes titled Soundsuits staged in public spectacle.
39221 Woodward Ave., Bloomfield Hills, MI 48303; 248.645.3320; www.cranbrookart.edu/museum.


NEW YORK
THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART displays “China: Through the Looking Glass” through August 16. This exhibition, presented in the museum’s Chinese Galleries and Anna Wintour Costume Center, explores how China has fueled the fashionable imagination for centuries, resulting in highly creative distortions of cultural realities and mythologies. High fashion is juxtaposed with Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains, and other art, as well as films, to reveal reflections of Chinese imagery.
1000 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10028; 212.535.7710; www.metmuseum.org.

THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY hosts “Global Fashion Capitals” through November 14. Paris, New York, Milan, and London have long been known as the fashion capitals of the world. However, the fashion industry is globalizing, and cities such as Seoul, São Paulo, Shanghai, and Mexico City are emerging as new fashion hubs. Exploring the rise of fashion cities over the past one hundred fifty years, the exhibition also examines the various forces that enable this growth, such as urban development, economic expansion, the establishment of fashion weeks, and the pervasiveness of the media.
Seventh Avenue at 27th St., New York, NY 10001; 212.217.4558; www.fitnyc.edu/3662.asp.


NORTH CAROLINA
THE MINT MUSEUM features “Body Embellishment” through September 6. The exhibit studies the more avant-garde forms of artistic expression in the twenty-first-century international arenas of body extension, augmentation and modification. The areas of focus are jewelry, tattoos, nail arts, and fashion. The exhibition includes approximately one hundred objects by artists and designers.
500 South Tryon Street, Charlotte, North Carolina 28202; 704.337.2000; www.mintmuseum.org.


OHIO
THE KENT STATE UNIVERSITY MUSEUM presents “Inside Out: Revealing Clothing’s Hidden Secrets” through February 14, 2016. The art of creating custom clothing has always entailed workmanship that is hidden when the pieces are worn. This exhibition showcases these inner-workings that are usually out of sight. Weights, pockets, quilted linings, boning, ruffles, and labels all come to light when the garments are flipped inside out. Spanning the eighteenth to the twentieth century and including both men’s and women’s wear, the clothing are examples of their respective eras. Unlike many period garments, which have been reworked or have had their linings and waistbands altered or removed, these pieces have been kept intact.
East Main Street and South Lincoln St., Kent, OH 44242; 330.672.3450; www.kent.edu/museum.


Shown are an emerald and gold pendant, a human effigy pendant of gold, copper, silver alloy, and the installation displaying grave goods from the middle layer of Burial 11.

THE PENN MUSEUM features “Beneath the Surface: Life, Death, and Gold in Ancient Panama” through November 1. For more than a thousand years, a cemetery on the banks of the Rio Grande Coclé in Panama lay undisturbed, escaping the attention of gold seekers and looters. The river flooded in 1927, scattering beads of gold along its banks. In 1940, a Penn Museum team led by archaeologist J. Alden Mason excavated at the cemetery, unearthing large golden plaques and pendants with animal-human motifs, precious and semiprecious stone, ivory, and animal bone ornaments, and detail-rich painted ceramics. It was evidence of a sophisticated precolumbian people, the Coclé, who lived, died and buried their dead according to ritual. This exhibition invites visitors to dig deeper, exploring the history, archaeological evidence and new research perspectives, in search of a greater understanding of the Coclé people who lived from about A.D. 700 to 900.
3260 South Street, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19104; 215.898.4000; www.penn.museum.


RHODE ISLAND
THE RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN MUSEUM hosts “Designing Traditions Biennial IV: Student Explorations in the Asian Textile Collection” from July 17, 2015 through January 3, 2016. RISD’s newest generation of textile designers source the museum’s Asian textile collection in this popular collaborative project and biennial exhibition. Traditional craftsmanship sparks contemporary creativity as objects such as a Japanese paper kimono, an embellished Kohistani infant headdress and a Chinese palm-fiber raincoat inspire innovative new textiles and garments.
20 North Main St., Providence, RI 02903; 401.454.6500; www.risdmuseum.org.


WASHINGTON
FACERE JEWELRY ART GALLERY hosts “Matter of Material” from July 22 through August 11. From paper and wood to cement and meteorites, nontraditional jewelry materials are explored in unique bodies of work by nine imaginative artists. Exhibiting artists include Matt Lambert, Kirk Lang, Jennifer Merchant, Gustav Reyes, Kait Rhoads, Checha Sokolovic, Cynthia Toops, Francesca Vitali, and Molly Aleza Vogel.
1420 Fifth Avenue, Suite 108, Seattle, Washington 98101; 206.624.6768; www.facerejewelryart.com.


INTERNATIONAL

AUSTRALIA
THE POWERHOUSE MUSEUM hosts “A Fine Possession: Jewellery & Identity” through September 20. Jewelry has been made and worn for personal, social and cultural reasons through millennia. This exhibition celebrates the central place of jewelry in human life, from antiquity to the present-day, through a selection of jewelry made, worn and collected in Australia.
500 Harris St., Ultimo, Sydney, New South Wales 1238, Australia; 02.9217.0444; www.powerhousemuseum.com.

CANADA
THE TEXTILE MUSEUM OF CANADA displays “Frida Kahlo: Through the Lens of Nickolas Muray,” showing through September 7. The exhibition is comprised of fifty photographic portraits of renowned Mexican artist Frida Kahlo taken by Hungarian-born photographer Nickolas Muray between 1937 and 1946. In many of Muray’s photographs, Kahlo poses in traditional Mexican dress—garments that reflect the influence of her personal heritage. Demonstrating the significance of Mexican costume and their histories to Kahlo’s self-identity and self-portraiture, the photographs are complemented by textiles from the museum’s collection of traditional Mexican dress that correspond to Frida Kahlo’s own collection in both provenance and style.
55 Centre Ave., Toronto, Ontario M5G 2H5; 416.599.5321; www.textilemuseum.ca.

FINLAND
THE DESIGN MUSEUM features “Anthology of Finnish Fashion” through September 20, with a selection of fashion from the 1950s to the present. The exhibit asks how the development and conditions of Finnish society have been manifested in fashion—the postwar intellectual landscape, long winters, equality, the proximity of the Soviet Union, the economic boom, the technological engineering mindset, and the millennium.
Korkeavuorenkatu 23, Helsinki, Finland 00130; 35.89.622.0540; www.designmuseum.fi/en.

Sage Holland

Sage Holland

FRANCE
JOURNEES DE LA PERLE DE VERRE
Years ago I found myself in northern France during September at the glass beadmakers festival called Journées de la Perle de Verre. The event is a wonderful combination of glass bead presenters, exhibitors and demonstrations. September 12, 2015 is its seventh biannual gathering, hosted by the Musée du Verre, a small glass museum in Sars-Poteries. I was accepted as the 2013 guest of honor.
Sars-Poteries originated as a pottery town, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, before becoming a major industrial center for glassware, with two factories producing flasks and goblets between 1802 and 1937. Some of the workers used to make items for their personal use during their breaks. These unique pieces, a record of the creativity of the best craftsmen, were intentionally designated as “bungled objects” so as not to draw the factory owner’s attention.
The museum originated at the initiative of the local priest, Louis Mériaux, who in 1967 organized an exhibition of these “bungled objects” which decorated most of the local homes. The exhibition was such a great success that it was decided to set up a glass museum in the home of the former glassworks owner, the Château Imbert. In 2015 construction has begun on a new building to house the extensive collections and rotating exhibits.
—Sage Holland
Facebook: Les Journées de la Perle de Verre.

LES ARTS DECORATIFS presents “Déboutonner la mode” through July 19. The exhibition unveils a collection of over three thousand unique buttons, and also features a selection of more than one hundred female and male garments and accessories by emblematic couturiers such as Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Patrick Kelly. Acquired in 2012, the collection was classified as a Work of Major Heritage Interest by the Consultative Commission on National Treasures.
107 Rue de Rivoli, Paris, France 75001; 33.0.1.4455.5750; www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/en.

GERMANY
SCHMUCKMUSEUM PFORZHEIM displays “The Feel of the City: Jewellery from Centres of this World” through November 1. Some jewelry can only be created—and worn—in big cities, which is conveyed as the central message of this exhibition. It showcases objects dating from classical antiquity until well into the twentieth century, spotlighting the centers of past epochs, such as Pompeii, Rome, Byzantium, and Constantinople, as well as the big trading cities of early modern times, starting from Florence via Paris and Augsburg to the Hamburg and Berlin of the 1920s.
Jahnstrasse 42, Pforzheim, Germany d-75173; 49.0.7231.39.21.26; www.schmuckmuseum.de.

GREAT BRITAIN
THE BRITISH MUSEUM presents “Shifting Patterns: Pacific Barkcloth Clothing” through December 6. In the islands of the Pacific, cloth made from the inner bark of trees is a distinctive art tradition. Spanning the region from New Guinea in the west to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in the east, the exhibition shows a selection of seventy-seven garments, headdresses, masks, and body adornments from the museum’s collection. Dating from the 1700s to 2014, the pieces include those worn as everyday items and ceremonial costumes linked to key life cycle events such as initiation and marriage.
Great Russell St., London, England WC1B 3DG; 44.20.7323.8299; www.britishmuseum.org.


THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM hosts “Shoes: Pleasure and Pain” through January 31, 2016. This exhibition looks at the extremes of footwear from around the globe, presenting two hundred pairs of shoes ranging from a sandal decorated in pure gold leaf originating from ancient Egypt to the most elaborate designs by contemporary makers.
Cromwell Rd., London, England SW7 2RL; 44.20.7942.2000; www.vam.ac.uk.

 

Ornament On The Move