NOW SHOWING

Shown are gold ear ornament, set of three bangles, and set of waist cord weights. Photographs by Neal Oshima and Wig Tysmans. Images courtesy of the Asia Society Museum, Ayala Museum, and Central Bank of the Philippines.

NEW YORK
THE ASIA SOCIETY MUSEUM presents "Philippine Gold: Treasures of Forgotten Kingdoms" through January 3, 2016. This exhibition presents  works of gold primarily discovered over the past forty years on the Philippine islands of Luzon, the Visayas, and Mindanao. The regalia, jewelry, ceremonial weapons, and ritualistic and funerary objects attest to the recently uncovered evidence of prosperity and achievement of Philippine polities that flourished between the tenth and thirteenth centuries, long before the Spanish discovered and colonized the region. Although the forms and styles of the majority of these works developed locally, some indicate that Philippine craftsmen had been exposed to objects from beyond their borders through the robust cultural connections and maritime trade in Southeast Asia during what was an early Asian economic boom. The Philippines has the second largest gold deposit in the world. The works on view here—from tiny gold tweezers to fabulous pieces of jewelry—reveal that these natural resources were readily exploited by the local people between the tenth and thirteenth centuries.
725 Park Ave., New York, NY 10021; 212-288-6400; asiasociety.org/arts/asia-society-museum.


Shown are Contrappunto, Classic Glamour and Sailor Glam. Photographs by Luca Stoppini.

ARIZONA
THE PHOENIX ART MUSEUM hosts “The White Shirt According to Me. Gianfranco Ferré” through March 6, 2016. Known as the “architect of fashion” and the purveyor of “power dressing,” Italian fashion designer Ferré viewed the white shirt as the archetypal expression of his approach to design and style. The exhibition includes a selection of twenty-seven of Ferré’s most significant white shirts created over the course of his career (1982-2006). Sketches, technical designs, photographs, and videos from the archives of the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation offer visitors the chance to go beyond the confines of fashion and examine the methods, techniques and precision Ferré applied to each of his designs. This exhibit is designed, produced and curated by the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation and by the Prato Textile Museum Foundation.
1625 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602.257.1880; www.phxart.org.


CALIFORNIA
THE DE YOUNG MUSEUM hosts “Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Na Hulu Ali‘i” through February 28, 2016. This exhibit explores the distinctive art, culture and history of Hawai‘i, and is the first exhibition of Hawaiian featherwork on the US mainland, developed in partnership with the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, Honolulu. Approximately seventy-five examples of featherwork capes and cloaks will be featured, as well as royal staffs of feathers (kahili), feather lei (lei hulu manu), helmets (mahiole), feathered god images (akua hulu manu), and related eighteenth- and nineteenth-century paintings and works on paper.Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., San Francisco, CA 94118; 415.750.3600; deyoung.famsf.org.

 

THE FOWLER MUSEUM AT UCLA features “Disguise: Masks & Global African Art” through March 13, 2016. The exhibit takes an in-depth look at contemporary artists whose work has a distinctive way of addressing the subject in a variety of creative mediums, including drawings, photographs, videos, masks, sculptures, performances, and installations.
308 Charles E. Young Dr. North, Los Angeles, CA 90024; 310.825.4361; www.fowler.ucla.edu.

THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING presents “Fleurs: Botanicals in Dress from the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection” through December 19. Botanicals have been incorporated into clothing decoration for centuries, with trompe l’oeil woven petals, shade-embroidered leaves and dimensional silk bouquet applications. This exhibition features a number of examples of these decorative techniques.
919 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90015; 213.623.5821; 
www.fidmmuseum.org.

 

THE RICHMOND ART CENTER presents “Body as Agent: Changing Fashion Art” through November 15. The exhibition is in response to the 1983 landmark showing of wearable art at the Richmond Art Center, “Poetry for the Body: Clothing for the Spirit.”  “Body as Agent” updates that exhibit, displaying many of the original artists and adding new artists and new notions, with more than thirty artists participating.
2540 Barrett Ave., Richmond, CA 94804; 510.620.6772;
www.richmondartcenter.org.

SHIBUMI GALLERY features “Silhouettes” through November 1. This exhibition shows work by jewelers/puppeteer Tura Sugden and Niki Ulehla. Sugden’s architectural work employs minimalism and judicial arrangement of elements to create plays of light and dark. Ulehla explores the primeval underbelly, creating dancing talismans from the intersection of jewelrymaking and puppetry.
1402 Fifth St., Berkeley, CA 94710; 510.528.7736; www.shibumigallery.com.


MASSACHUSETTS
THE FULLER CRAFT MUSEUM hosts “Little Dreams in Glass and Metal: Enameling in America, 1920 to the Present” through November 29. Enameling, the art of fusing glass to metal through a high temperature firing process, gained great popularity in the United States in the last half of the twentieth century. The exhibition includes a wide range of objects from wearable jewelry to large enamel-on-steel wall panels and explores the history of enameling in this United States from 1930 to the present. Approximately one hundred twenty works from the Los Angeles-based Enamel Arts Foundation’s collection are on display.
455 Oak St., Brockton, MA 02301; 508.588.6000; www.fullercraft.org.


Shown are a pearl necklace by Marcus & Co., Dance of 30 brooch by Tod Pardon, and an enamel and gold brooch by Marcus & Co.

NEW JERSEY
THE NEWARK MUSEUM presents “Jewelry: From Pearls to Platinum to Plastic,” an ongoing installation that debuted June 27, 2015. The museum has been collecting jewelry since 1911 and has one of the most comprehensive holdings in the United States, along with the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. The Lore Ross Jewelry Gallery, newly redesigned and reinstalled, showcases jewelry across seven centuries. The new installation focuses on the wide array of materials, both precious and nonprecious, that have been used over the centuries to create objects of beauty for personal adornment.
49 Washington Street, Newark, New Jersey 07102-3176; 973.596.6550; www.newarkmuseum.org.


NEW YORK
THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART presents “Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style” from November 19, 2015 through February 21, 2016. This Costume Institute exhibition will focus on the internationally renowned style icon Jacqueline de Ribes. The thematic show will feature about sixty ensembles of haute couture and ready-to-wear primarily from de Ribes’s personal archive, dating from 1959 to the present. Also included will be her creations for fancy-dress balls, which she often made by cutting and cannibalizing her haute couture gowns to express her aesthetic.
1000 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10028; 212.535.7710; www.metmuseum.org.

THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY hosts “Global Fashion Capitals” through November 14. Exploring the rise of fashion cities over the past one hundred fifty years, the exhibition also examines the various forces that enable this growth, such as urban development, economic expansion, the establishment of fashion weeks, and the pervasiveness of the media. Also showing is “Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch” through December 5.
Seventh Avenue at 27th St., New York, NY 10001; 212.217.4558; www.fitnyc.edu/3662.asp.


NORTH CAROLINA
THE MINT MUSEUM displays “Viva Moschino!” through April 3, 2016. Known for relentlessly mocking the fashion system while at the same time profiting from it, Franco Moschino (1950-1994) used fashion as a platform for theatrical presentations filled with humor, irony and surrealism. Drawn largely from two Chicago-area private collections as well as institutional loans and the Mint’s own Fashion Collection, the exhibition focuses on the Italian designer’s work between 1983 and 1994, when his designs were worn by rock stars, actors and other celebrities including Tina Turner. This is the first American retrospective of his work.
500 South Tryon St., Charlotte, NC 28202; 704.337.2000; www.mintmuseum.org.


OHIO
THE KENT STATE UNIVERSITY MUSEUM presents “Inside Out: Revealing Clothing’s Hidden Secrets” through February 14, 2016. The art of creating custom clothing has always entailed workmanship that is hidden when the pieces are worn. Weights, pockets, quilted linings, boning, ruffles, and labels all come to light when the garments are flipped inside out. Spanning the eighteenth to the twentieth century and including both men’s and women’s wear, the clothing items are examples of their respective eras. Unlike many period garments, which have been reworked or have had their linings and waistbands altered or removed, these pieces have been kept intact.
515 Hilltop Dr., Kent, OH 44242; 330.672.3450; www.kent.edu/museum.

THE TOLEDO MUSEUM OF ART features “The Rise of Sneaker Culture” from December 3, 2015 through February 28, 2016. This traveling exhibition, organized by the American Federation of Arts and Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum, is the first in North America to present a comprehensive survey of the sneaker’s complex design history and cultural significance. The exhibit explores the tennis shoe from its first iterations in the 1800s to the high tops of 2015.
2445 Monroe St., Toledo, OH 43620; 419.255.8000; www.toledomuseum.org.


PENNSYLVANIA
THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART features “Art of the Zo: Textiles from Myanmar, India and Bangladesh” through March 20, 2016. This exhibition offers a look at the woven textiles of the Zo people and spotlights their traditional weavings worn for daily life and ceremonial occasions, such as weddings, funerals and feasts of merit. Their patterns, techniques and local variations are closely examined, revealing the subtle beauty and intricate craftsmanship of the Zo creations across a large geographical landscape.
2600 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy, Philadelphia, PA 19130; 215.763.8100; www.philamuseum.org.


RHODE ISLAND
THE RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN MUSEUM hosts “Designing Traditions Biennial IV: Student Explorations in the Asian Textile Collection” through January 3, 2016. RISD’s newest generation of textile designers source the museum’s Asian textile collection in this popular collaborative project and biennial exhibition. Traditional craftsmanship sparks contemporary creativity as objects such as a Japanese paper kimono, an embellished Kohistani infant headdress and a Chinese palm-fiber raincoat inspire innovative new textiles and garments.
20 North Main St., Providence, RI 02903; 401.454.6500; www.risdmuseum.org.


Shown is Raven Feather Link necklace in micro-mosaic and sterling silver, and I Give You The Moon and The Sun ring of opal, micro-mosaic and sterling silver.

WASHINGTON
STONINGTON GALLERY recently hosted a solo exhibition of jewelrymaker Courtney Lipson’s work. Lipson has developed her micro-mosaic jewelry over the last decade, honing her ability to portray subjects such as weaving, flowers, feathers, and rock striations in detail. More recently the Bellingham-sited artist has added precious stones into the mix, as well as hand-filed silver and gold settings. The exhibit included a return to works inspired by Haida and Tlingit weaving patterns.
125 South Jackson Street, Seattle, Washington 98104; 206.405.4040; www.stoningtongallery.com.

FACERE JEWELRY ART GALLERY presents “Bewitched, Bothered and Bewildered: Jewelry to Confound” from January 27 through February 17, 2016. This exhibition seeks to playfully challenge our minds and senses, and features the work of nineteen jewelers, including Nancy Megan Corwin, Trudee Hill, Jennifer Merchant, Cynthia Toops, Sarah Wauzynski, and Roberta and David Williamson.
1420 Fifth Ave., Suite 108, Seattle, WA 98101; 206.624.6768; www.facerejewelryart.com.


INTERNATIONAL

AUSTRALIA
THE POWERHOUSE MUSEUM features “Collette Dinnigan: Unlaced” through August 28, 2016. This is the first exhibition to explore the work of this internationally acclaimed Australian fashion designer. Featuring ensembles, accessories and archival material from the museum’s collection and Dinnigan’s personal archive, the exhibit presents her signature lace and embellished designs in a series of themed sets.
500 Harris St., Ultimo, Sydney, New South Wales 1238, Australia; 02.9217.0444; www.powerhousemuseum.com.

CANADA
THE ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM hosts “¡Viva México! Clothing & Culture” through May 23, 2016. Over one hundred fifty historic and contemporary pieces are on display, including complete costume ensembles, serapes, rebozos, textiles, embroidery, and beadwork. The evolution of Mexican fashion reflects the history of Mexico, where the textile arts reach back over many centuries. After the Spanish Conquest of 1521, European styles influenced the distinctive clothing of the Maya, the Aztec and other civilizations. Contemporary Mexican textiles owe their vitality to the fusion of traditions.
100 Queen’s Park, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5S 2C6; 416.586.8000; www.rom.on.ca/en.

DENMARK
THE MUSEUM AT KOLDINGHUS presents “Georg Jensen: A Tale Of Danish Silver” through February 28, 2016. The museum marks the one hundred fiftieth anniversary of the Danish designer’s birth (1866-1935) in a large retrospective exhibition, and is a journey through stylistic periods, presented through pieces of Georg Jensen himself and the many talented designers who have been affiliated with Jensen’s workshops from the beginning and to the present. It opens with a selection of the designer’s jewelry with flora and fauna motifs, as well as hammered hollowware. The contemporary jewelry is represented by Nanna Ditzel and Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe among others.
Markdanersgade 11, Kolding, Denmark 6000; 0045.76.33.81.00; www.koldinghus.dk/uk.

 

FINLAND
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF FINLAND presents “Brilliant! – Jewellery – Photograph – Sound” through February 1, 2016. Jewelry made by Finnish artists, photographs by Susanna Majuri and a soundscape combine to create a dialogue. The exhibit displays the design and handicraft skills of nearly thirty distinguished goldsmiths from a period spanning several decades. The exhibition celebrates the 110th Jubilee Year of the Goldsmith Association. Shown are a bracelet by Juha Koskela, ring by Rauno Tynkkynen, bracelet by Matti Hyvärinen, and necklace by Raimo Nieminen.
Mannerheimintie 34, Helsinki, Finland 00100; 358.295.33.6000; www.kansallismuseo.fi/en.

FRANCE
LES ARTS DECORATIFS hosts “Korea Now! Craft, Design, Fashion and Graphic Design in Korea” through January 3, 2016. As part of the France-Korea Year organized under the aegis of the France-Korea Committee, chaired by Henri Loyrette, and in partnership with the Korea Craft & Design Foundation, this event brings together more than seven hundred works of art by one hundred fifty artists, artisans, designers, fashion designers, and graphic designers in the museum’s temporary exhibition spaces.
107 Rue de Rivoli, Paris, France 75001; 33.0.1.4455.5750; www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/en.

Shown is a photograph by Susanne Friedel from the Beyond Fashion project, and a photograph by Tim Mitchell picturing a mother still in mourning over her missing daughter, who was a factory worker in Bangladesh.

GERMANY
THE MUSEUM FÜR KUNST UND GEWERBE HAMBURG recently presented “Fast Fashion: The Dark Side of Fashion.” The exhibit critically examined the behind the scenes of fashion, investigating issues of consumerism, economic interests and ecological issues. Its theme also focused on fashion and victims; poverty and affluence; global and local effects; wages and profits; garments and chemicals; and new fiber technologies. Part of the exhibition consisted of a platform for ethical fashion labels and new approaches to design aspects, such as recycling or upcycling.
Steintorplatz, Hamburg, Germany 20099; 49.0.40.428134.880; www.mkg-hamburg.de/en.

SCHMUCKMUSEUM PFORZHEIM displays “Fitting and Befitting: Fibulae and Brooches” through February 21, 2016. The development of clothing entailed the question of how to fasten or artfully gather garments, something which evolved into a theme that challenged jewelrymakers in various epochs. As garment fasteners, fibulae served both a practical and an ornamental purpose. Their advent began in the Bronze Age, when people learned how to artistically work metal. Serving both as fasteners and status symbols, fibulae remained indispensable accessories well into the High Middle Ages. Along with the advent of buttons, they evolved into brooches that satisfied people’s need for adorning themselves.
Jahnstrasse 42, Pforzheim, Germany d-75173; 49.0.7231.39.21.26; www.schmuckmuseum.de.

Shown are a necklace by Jacqueline Mina, a bangle by Peter Chang, and a brooch by John Donald.

GREAT BRITAIN
THE GOLDSMITHS’ CENTRE hosts “A Sense of Jewellery” through November 19. The exhibit brings together examples of contemporary jewelry made over forty years by forty British artists and designers. This unique combination of British works has been put together by invited guest curators: Amanda Game, an independent curator of jewelry and silversmithing, and Liveryman of The Goldsmiths’ Company; and Professor Dorothy Hogg, designer and former Head of the School of Jewellery in Edinburgh. Major works by established artists such as Wendy Ramshaw and Gerda Flockinger are shown alongside jewelry by emerging makers from across the United Kingdom, such as Andrew Lamb and Zoe Arnold. The exhibit, as part of the London Design Festival, also features contemporary women artists and designers exploring themes of globalization, identity and nanotechnology through jewelry design. 
42 Britton Street, Clerkenwell, London, England EC1M 5AD; 020.7566.7650; www.goldsmiths-centre.org.


THE BRITISH MUSEUM presents “Shifting Patterns: Pacific Barkcloth Clothing” through December 6. In the islands of the Pacific, cloth made from the inner bark of trees is a distinctive art tradition. Spanning the region from New Guinea in the west to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in the east, the exhibition shows a selection of seventy-seven garments, headdresses, masks, and body adornments from the museum’s collection. Dating from the 1700s to 2014, the pieces include those worn as everyday items and ceremonial costumes linked to key life cycle events such as initiation and marriage.
Great Russell St., London, England WC1B 3DG; 44.20.7323.8299; www.britishmuseum.org.


THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM hosts “Shoes: Pleasure and Pain” through January 31, 2016. This exhibition looks at the extremes of footwear from around the globe, presenting two hundred pairs of shoes ranging from a sandal decorated in pure gold leaf originating from ancient Egypt to the most elaborate designs by contemporary makers.
Cromwell Rd., London, England SW7 2RL; 44.20.7942.2000; www.vam.ac.uk.

 

Ornament On The Move