ORNAMENT Volume 29 No. 2

Features

Fashion in Colors 300 Years of Historic and Contemporary Costume. 
Mary Hicklin Like a Phoenix from the Ashes, There’s a Virgo Moon Rising.
Angelina DeAntonis An Ocelot with Itajime Spots. 
Jana Brevick A Slyly Subversive Artist. 
Vicki Eisenfeld When the Muse Comes Calling. 
Arousa el Burka The Pride of Veiling in Egypt and North East Africa. 

Departments

Conference Design with Heart. 
Exhibition West African Gold. 
Craft Venue Baltimore Fine Craft Show.
Ancient Sites Mesa Verde National Park. 
Marketplace Dikra Gem. 
Bead Arts Mirage Beads

 
 
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Color is such a beguiling state due to its intrinsic phantasmic quality, as it does not really exist but is based on how light waves refract off our eyes. How the magical qualities of color influence fashion is the subject of Fashion in Colors, with sixty-eight costumes spanning three hundred years of Western fashion. Showing at the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, the exhibition divides into color stations of black, multicolor, blue, red, yellow, and white costumed mannequins.

 
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Mary Hicklin established her studio, Virgo Moon, in 1990 while still working in computers, making jewelry on the side, for herself and friends, and taking classes. As an only child, she left the computer industry to care for her mother and devoted full time to her one-of-a-kind jewelry business, primarily focused on the necklace form, in 2001. “As you might guess, the name of my company refers to the astrological observation that my moon is in Virgo,” explains Hicklin. “According to some, this accounts for my delight in arranging ‘little fiddly bits.’”

 
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There is a rustle in the high grass. A flash of color darts by. You sense a powerful presence moving toward the clearing and suddenly it breaks free, leaping into sight with a smooth rush of purpose. It could be a wild cat or a dancer clad in Ocelot, the clothing line designed by Angelina DeAntonis. With its striking color palette and bold patterns of spots created with itajime dye-work, Ocelot clothing evokes images of wild animals and jungle insects. The body conforming drape of silk and wool fabrics reinforces the sensation of donning a second skin.

 
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Nothing sums up Jana Brevick’s highly original and extraordinarily intelligent jewelry like her limited edition of Everchanging Rings.Made of pure gold, the rings look like they might have been unearthed during an archaeological dig of a lost civilization. The rings, always without gemstones or other added materials, appear to be simple bands of glittering, untarnished gold, roughly hammered and shaped by an ancient jeweler. Their seductive appeal is timeless.

 
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Happiness and comfort inhabit the studio Vicki Eisenfeld maintains in West Hartford, Connecticut. There she spends hours in thought and fabrication, the two activities as intimately entwined as the weaving and marriage of metals techniques that form the foundation of her work. Eisenfeld believes in process, in experiment and exploration. She notes that in truth “you don’t even know you have reached a new stage in development until you’re there.” Back in the late 1980s and early 1990s she made big pieces, what she describes as “almost miniature sculptures.”

 
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Veils are an important part of culture in the Middle East. This is as much the case nowadays as it was before the coming of Islam. Veiling was customary in antiquity. It was an honor for the women wearing the veils. It represented identity and anonymity at the same time. The woman wearing the veil showed that she was part of an upright and respectable class of society without giving away her individuality.