ORNAMENT Volume 35 No. 2

Heather Bayless. Nature Refined
Joanna Gollberg. An Unsentimental View of Jewelry
Patty Grazini. Criminally Inspired Costumes
Michael Manthey. Heavy Metal Alchemist
Jean Paul Gaultier. From Street to Chic


For metalsmith and jeweler Heather Bayless, a reinvestment of wonder in nature is an obvious goal, though, in her case, childlike vision is a complicated metaphor. “I grew up in the middle of nowhere in Upstate New York,” she explains. “My dad was a scientist, and every weekend he'd say, 'Let's go for a hike up the hill!' He'd show us different types of trees, lichens and other things, and we'd make spore prints from wild mushrooms.” From the spirit of scientific inquiry and the insatiable curiosity of a child, memories formed that would, years later, enrich Bayless's art.


Joanna Gollberg loves being a maker. She works quickly and efficiently to create colorful, light-hearted jewelry that is contemporary in design, but her dedication to technique and craft recalls a traditional mode. Today she works in the beautiful mountains of western North Carolina, in her hometown of Asheville, crafting distinctive high-prong jewelry remarkable for its dynamic interplay of informality and luxury. For much of the past year, she has spent her time addressing the business aspects of being a maker.


Patty Grazini is a Seattle, Washington, artist with a passion for paper, and a fascination with late-nineteenth-century and early-twentieth-century New York. She recently created thirteen paper sculptures all based on real criminals she discovered by researching old newspapers and historical archives. Charmingly attired but criminally inspired, her paper figures are a thoroughly captivating late Victorian police lineup of swindlers, embezzlers, shoplifters, murderers, and bigamists. What they have in common are their extraordinarily nuanced paper outfits and their astonishing paper animal heads.


It may be that there are as many roads to becoming an artist as there are artists, but Michael Manthey’s journey surely stands out. Born in 1950 in a small town near Hamburg, Germany, he succumbed at an early age to the restlessness to which his native tongue has given the name Wanderlust, traveling throughout Europe and to Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and North Africa before settling in Philadelphia around 1980. Along the way, he has made his living as a nurse, a street musician, a diver, a video producer, a construction worker, and an artists’ model, among other occupations. It was not until he was in his forties, however, that he found his calling as an artist.


French fashion takes itself very seriously. Haute couture is not an artform but a syndicate, bound by written rules and hallowed traditions. But the irrepressible Jean Paul Gaultier loves to play—perhaps because he was barely more than a child when he began his career. Gaultier began sketching at an early age, and in 1970, on his eighteenth birthday, he was hired by Pierre Cardin, once something of an enfant terrible himself.