SILVER AND GOLD
Background: Rafael Sanzio by David & Roberta Williamson
KEN LOEBER & DONA LOOK
Silver and Gold; the two precious metals that have been used by human beings to decorate themselves for millennia. Representing purity, divinity, royal status, they were once the purview only of the very rich. The democratization of these two materials, particularly in the twentieth century, has led to a renaissance in expression. Rather than primarily denoting wealth, gold and silver are used for their aesthetic properties, as colors in a palette, as well as wry commentary, as is the case in some contemporary art jewelry. Juxtaposing their perceived value against industrial materials like plaster and concrete, or hidden among junk to denote their relative value, these metals have found new life in the world of personal adornment.
What is so attractive about gold and silver? The answer for most people is elementary. Both gold and silver are brilliant, shiny metals that do not easily lose their luster. Gold glows like the sun, and for cultures like the ancient Egyptians and Nubians, represented the monarch’s adjacency to divine power. Notably, it does not tarnish, retaining its vibrant color even through centuries of time.
Silver on the other hand calls us to reminisce of the moon. Its simple purity has made it to be viewed as a magical substance, often to ward off evil spirits and creatures of the night. Many folk and tribal cultures have used silver to create jewelry that often bedecks the individual, inscribed with patterns and symbolism that provides an intricate portrait of the person who is wearing them.
In truth, the use of silver and gold in ancient and tribal cultures depended on mines and trade routes, as well as the level of metallurgy practiced in the region. Yet the ingenuity of human beings is immense. Native Americans began incorporating silversmithing into their personal adornment in the 19th century, after being introduced to the material by the Spaniards. Today, Native American silversmithing is celebrated across the world, and tribes like the Navajo, the Hopi, Kiowa, and the Pueblo Indians have produced renowned jewelers who today find ways to merge innovation with tradition.
The Tuareg people of Northern Africa similarly create great works from silver, accomplished with very basic tools. As signs of identity and a visual cultural language, their adornment is, like the Native Americans, a slow dance of recognition and connection. Indian sonis, goldsmiths who have similarly mastered techniques passed down through time long past, create lush necklaces and bracelets peppered with minute details.
Gold was also used by the ancient Panamanians and other Precolumbian Americans, as signs of wealth and status. Thin sheets of the gleaming yellow metal were beaten into shape, crests and nose decorations that fanned out like bird’s wings.
#8 RHINOPLASTY by Lisa Gralnick of plaster, gold and acrylic, 2005. Photograph by Jim Escalante, courtesy of the Bellevue Arts Museum.
KERI ATAUMBI
NAMU CHO
JUDITH KINGHORN
GARRY KNOX BENNETT